But a citron fruit (Citrus medica) is rarer than a lemon and not nearly so juicy. It takes around three to four thousand kilos of gardenia flowers to produce a kilo of concrete (solid perfume) from gardenia plants so not surprisingly, this heady white flower is one of the priciest ingredients in a perfumers arsenal. Its an extraordinaryplant or rather, plants: there are more than 9000 species of grass. (See also cherry blossom, a floral note.) (And although described as blue, they can be tinged from white to pink to deep, almost hyacinth in colour). Antonias Flowers Floret 'Thenatural extract is tooth-shaking sweet, seemingly (of course, it isntin reality),' explains perfumer Andy Tauer, 'and smells like a raspberry under LSD influence. Its burned today in Catholic churches and Anglican high church ceremonies and perhaps as a result, its a love-it-or-hate-it ingredient, depending on whether you were forced to sit through endless sermons and hymns on Sundays. Off-screen, this flowering plant flourishes further afield than the European alps, where its a protected species: edelweiss is nowadays most commonly found in Javanese mountain regions. (Though rums more widely used to add swagger to mens perfumery, quite a few opulent womens scents also feature a slug of this multi-faceted ingredient, which can have hints of vanilla, clove, ginger or ripe fruits). Theres an intriguing back story to the naming of this plant, meanwhile. But mostly, when encountered in fragrance, its a synthetic. Este Lauder Sensuous In Medieval times, lavender was strewn on the floors of churches and homes, used to scent linen and clothing, and also in pot pourri and sachets. This member of the citrus family is native to south Asia and has long been cultivated in Japan, Taiwan and the Philippines, too. "Created in the 1960s, it brings a strong note of "pure water", salty ocean air and is also reminiscent of watermelon. Jo Malone London Red Roses Actually, it was 10th Century Arabic perfumers who pioneered the use of civet (which isnt a cat at all, rather confusingly; it looks more like a spotted-and-striped possum). Oscar de la Renta Live in Love Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl. An aromatic chemical that adds a sea breeze or marine-type note to fragrances, calone is a powder that is 100 percent man-made. Miss Sixty Miss Sixty Guerlain Terracotta Eau Sous le Vent Walk past a hedgerow in full blossom and youll breathe the spicy, almond-like scent of the flowers which has been prized for centuries by perfumers. Aldehydes are actually a family of ingredients: they can be metallic, starchy, citrusy, waxy. Its also on the official list of endangered flora of Brazil. The berries are harvested from a small, shrub-like tree which belongs to the cypress family. If you ever come across a piece of the wood itself, its magical: the scent can still be enjoyed, years after it was harvested. But in fact, orange blossoms versatility lends itself to all kinds of fragrances so its very widely used, acting too as a natural fixative to prolong the life of will-o-the-wisp ingredients. 5 (per 100 ml $ 234) . By Kilian Love by Kilian So many sandalwood trees have been cut down in India, largely for production of perfume and incense often illegally harvested, because its such a valuable commodity - that its become endangered. Chemical & Engineering News reported that: 'Large fragrance and ingredient firms like Givaudan are developing nonendangered, sustainable sources of natural ingredients. Valentino Valentina. Juliette Has A Gun Miss Charming "It brings extra-soul to perfumes, with the sensuous tonalities of sun-kissed skin. Mad et Len Eau de Fleur dOranger (Closer to home, this shiny-leafed exotic can often be found on sale as a potted plant in garden centres and some natural food stores: one single open flower can perfume a room, its so heady and lush.). Dior Hypnotic Poison Tom Ford Black Orchid Down the years, those have been harnessed in rituals to induce a hallucinogenic state which allowed mere mortals to connect with the Gods (so legend has it). Lancme La Vie Est Belle (The other gifts were of course myrrh another fragrance ingredient and gold. David & Victoria Beckham Signature for Her Ah, sweet violets. Naughty, naughty, naughty. Bulgari Mon Jasmin Noir LEau Exquise Boucheron Bracelet Jaipur Miller Harris La Fume "Monoi is made by macerating Tiare flowers (Tahitian Frangipani) in coconut oil until the oil absorbs the beautiful floral scent of the Tiare petals," says Reilly. Unable to leave behind the beauty of his image, Narcissus died to be replaced by this flower, Boadicea the Victorious Magnificent But did you know that this stone-fruit is related to the cashew family? The tree probably gets its name from the Latin pira. But with zero calories. Guerlain Iris Ganache. Henry Rose reveals 100 percent of the ingredients used to create its . In reality, rosewater is the poor relation of the true rose scent, from the oil thats so essential a component of the perfumes which today send our senses into a delicious spin. "It was used for the first time in 1966 in iconic fragrance, Eau Sauvage by Parfums Christian Dior," says Huclier. The gum itself comes from an umbelliferous (umbrella-like) Persian grass, and can vary from amber to dark green. The juice tastes less sour than lemon, but more bitter than grapefruit which explains why bergamot has become known for its aromatic essential oil, rather than as something we eat for breakfast (Although bergamot is used in Earl Grey tea), Its scent is fruity-sweet with mild spicy hints, and youll encounter it as a top note in compositions within most of the fragrance families male and female. Yes, it does: its honeyed, musky, softly sweet and intimate, sometimes with hints of pollen. The lasting power is 10 - 12 hours with great projection. Last but not least, theres an almond tree note use sometimes used by perfumers - in this case, a synthetic fantasy note: green, nutty and woody. (There are also forests of it in northern Ethiopia although ecologists report that production of this resin could decline by half, over the next 15 years, as those forests are systematically cut down to make way for agriculture.). Tom Ford Violet Blonde Local Perfume Ingredients View Gallery RELATED STORY: Tags: Versace Versace, Pungent, lavender-like, aromatic: nothing smells quite like rosemary. Then the leaves are either CO2-extracted, or steam-distilled. Goutal Eau du Sud Nina Ricci Premier Jour (And in similarly teeny does, its also been used in medicine as a sedative), Illamasqua Freak I love every facet of myrrh, which gives long-lastingness and elegance to both womens and mens perfumes. Yves Saint LaurentLa Collection Nu. In natural medicine, labdanums prescribed to boost the immune system. (Wormwood gets its name from the plants power to treat parasites.) The name comes from the Latin, so were told: lavere means to wash, and the Romans perfumed their baths with lavender oil. Lacoste Pour Femme But when vanilla is added to food or fragrance, naturally-present vanillin (and other vanilloids, which well talk about in a moment) work to hold open our vanilloid receptors, slowing down this wiping process which in turn gives us more time to perceive, experience and enjoy both scents and flavours. Cartier Les Heures de Cartier LHeure Brilliant VI (Not to be confused, incidentally, with the type of verbena grown in Britain, which has no value in perfumery. Farina in the 17th Century. Calendula blossoms, with their musky pungency, are used to produce essential oil through steam distillation; tagetes oil comes from the seeds of that plant though in terms of what they deliver to a perfume composition, theyre pretty interchangeable. (Were going to try it out on our cashmere, and will report back.) It was first described in the 14th Century; the Arabs called benzoin frankincense of Java, and its had a seriously long tradition of use in pomanders, pot pourri, incense and soaps. Go figure. The resin produces a scent similar to that of balsam or lavender. At least thats what I believe. Emporio Armani Lei The scented oils obtained by cold-pressing the peel and unlike so many other plant ingredients, the aroma that you get from that process is almost exactly the natural scent of the ripe fruits peel. Givenchy Ange ou Demon Musk produced by a gland at the base of the African civet cat's tail, pure civet is said to have a strong, unpleasant odor, but in small quantities, it is often used to add depth and warmth to a fragrance. Cartier Baiser Vol (Castor, by the way, gets its name from the Greek word for beaver. Lancme Miracle Intense Kiwi fruit themselves grow on woody vines which produce incredibly dull-looking fruit (greenish-brown, fuzzy) but slice them open and the luscious green flesh (with its corona of black, edible seeds) is revealed. In nature, of course, its toxic: the Atropa belladonna plant can kill. Miller Harris La Fume Arabie But perfume-wise, sugars star is in the ascendant in line with the boom in gourmand compositions, adding almost a touch of booziness. The word geraniol may be written there, as this is one of the perfume ingredients known to trigger sensitivity, in some people so its there as a warning. Donna Karan DKNY Guerlain Shalimar Serge Lutens Datura Noir Diptyque LEau de Hesperides ), FreshCannabis Rose Este Lauder Pleasures Ivy was also carried by women who wanted to attract good fortune. Often, only the lightest touch of orris is needed in fragrances but noses wouldnt be without it, for the world. Water lily, as a perfume ingredient, is a little like lily lite. There are many different varieties of this Mediterranean shrub, but today its the flower tops of Garden Thyme (a.k.a. (Its also, rather usefully, anti-microbial and anti-flatulant though not in perfume!). You may be able to make it out West Indian bay itself among the cinnamon, oil of cloves, citrus and other spice oils. Occasionally, Myrrh has a smoky and syrupy character. (Over the centuries, its also been valued as a medicinal and was actually recommended by the famous herbalist John Gerard; elecampane has been prescribed for shortness of breath and water retention.) Its extracted by steam distillation of freshly-picked flowers, which must be a gorgeous task. Very popular in contemporary perfumery tonkas sweetness goes beautifully in gourmand fragrances, as well as Ambres it was also used in the past for making pot pourri, to scent snuff, as well as beinglayered between clothes. Jovoy ParisL'Enfant Terrible. The blossom of the bitter orange tree (a.k.a. Its one of the most desirable firewoods, producing a highly aromatic smoke thats brilliant for smoking meat and tobacco and which perfumers seek to capture and recreate, quite aside from the delicate crispness of the plants much better-known fruit. Synthetic sources of the molecule vanillin that characterizes vanilla have allowed us to add this delicious and additive note to fragrances across a broad variety of applications. Xerjoff Irisss This quirky fruit was originally grown in China, Japan, India and south-eastern Siberia, but has since been commercialised around the world from New Zealand to France, via Chile and Greece. Actually, iris runs the spectrum from sweet to earthy: it also works brilliantly to fix other ingredients, giving a more lasting quality to florals and base notes. Every perfume produced by Options LTD comes with a range of options for packaging, boxing, branding, and design. Guerlain Mitsouko, In the wrong hands, strawberry can smell sickly-sweet and synthetic. Now, as we know, its in countless foods, and most of us have a love-hate relationship with the stuff. Memo Moon Safari Creed Bois de Cedrat Miller Harris Jasmin Vert Its been used in scent-making almost forever early Arab perfume recipes recorded by Al-Kindi include the use of apricot. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Cologne Pour le Matin A key ingredient in old and new Arabic perfumery, renowned as an element within high-quality incense in Arabic, Japanese and Indian cultures, oudh has now definitively crossed over to the west. Indole is sexy, powerful, intense va-va-voom, in a bottle. Penhaligon's Blasted Bloom Benzaldehyde is a synthetic material found naturally in bitter almond oil, used in small amounts in violet and heliotrope types of perfumes to give a whisper of marzipan. Yummy, yummy rum: wonderful in cocktails to drink, glorious in perfumes an appetising gourmand ingredient that pairs well with woods, adding complexity, sweetness and intrigue. But in truth, the tuberose used in perfumery nowadays is often a synthetic copy not just because of the price, but because through manipulating the aroma particles, its possible to bring out tuberoses creaminess, or its more camphor-like side. Jo Malone London Black Vetyver Caf. Guerlain Champs Elyses LArtisan ParfumeurPremier Figuier In fragrance, though, peony is a fresh, soft floral note: uplifting, calming, working brilliantly alongside other floral notes, especially the equally delicately-petalled rose. Some people say it smells of onions or leeks; others, that it has a balsamy, resinous or even sweaty edge - but as with so many botanical ingredients, asafoetida can work magic when skilfully blended in perfumes: the teeniest of quantities acts as an accenter, to boost the power of other ingredients including galbanum, which is widely-used in chypre scents, including Ma Griffe by Carven, and Pierre Balmains Vent Vert. Some noses played around with ingredients like patchouli, or synthetic imitations of oakmoss to try to achieve some of the same effects as this wonder of the natural scent world, but theres no question that some favourite fragrances started not to smell like themselves. L'OccitaneOrange Leaves Eau de Cologne The idea is that watery fragrances should actually should smell breezy, outdoorsy, like the mist thats in the air when we take a walk on a beach with the surf crashing against the sand. Its fresh scent is found in both male and female fragrances. Down the centuries, then, incense has been burned as a part of religious rites, as a fumigant to cleanse the air and kill germs or simply for the pure joy of its perfume. Powerful, intense va-va-voom, in a bottle fruit ( Citrus medica ) is rarer than a lemon and nearly. Scent similar to that of balsam or lavender lightest touch of orris is needed in fragrances but noses wouldnt without... Used to perfume ingredients by brand its cherry blossom, a floral note., the... Anti-Flatulant though not in perfume! ) its an extraordinaryplant or rather, plants: there are many varieties... Sun-Kissed skin a floral note. ingredients: they can be tinged from to... 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